Monday, August 30, 2010

The Ruff

One of the most extravagant clothing items of the 16th Century was the ruff, a detachable pleated collar supported by a wire frame, that reached enormous proportions.  The style has its roots in the East, where Indians wore collars stiffened with rice water, to protect their clothes from their hair.

In Europe, the ruff began as a simple, high collar of the early century, trimmed to a modest frill.  But then, legend has it, in 1540 the queen of Navarre widened the frill to hide her ugly throat - and so the ruff was born.  It soon spread to Italy, where Catherine de' Medici (always a trendsetter) was quick to adopt it, and to England, after Mary Tudor wed Phillip II of Spain. 

A ruff was made of linen that is folded with a poking stick while still damp.  After it dried, it was stored in a band box.  The most popular styles included the large cartwheel ruff, the two-layer double ruff, and the cabbage ruff, with asymmetrical folds.

Married women wore circular styles, while heart-shaped ones were favored by single ladies.  Among the most elegant ruffs are those worn by Queen Elizabeth I of England.

As the century progressed, wearing a stylish collar got rough as ruffs  reached their outer limits.  Case in point, King Henry II sported a ruff that used more than 18 yards of linen and was over 11 feet deep.  Imagine!

Two products of the ruff: a chafed neck and the invention of the long-handled spoon - to help food reach people's mouths over those huge collars.


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