Monday, March 19, 2012

Broadside Jackets, Pirate Style

In the 1600's the new dignity of the French court affected men, completely derailing the sexy short doublet.  During this era the justaucorps was born, a boon to all men with less-than-perfect derrieres.

 Johnny Depp as Captain Jack Sparrow

 Philip Winchester in Crusoe

 Circa 1710

The garment started as a slender, knee-length coat with short sleeves to offset the elaborate cuffs of shirts and doublets. But by the end of the century, when it acquired a nipped-in waist, full-length sleeves, and a massive cuffs of its own, it became the foundation of everyday menswear.

 Heath Ledger in Casanova
French, circa 1750

Circa 1775

Dandies adorned their justaucorps with embroidery, straps, braids, and the hottest new feature - slash pockets.

 Vanity Fair

Don Luis de la Cerda, Duke of Medinacelli

Napoleon's Fist Consul uniform

The horizontal pockets were placed just out of reach, near the hem of the coat: and as if to offset their inconvenience, they were decorated with buttons topped by a neat row of totally useless buttonholes.

Ralph Finnes, The Duchess

Source: Let There Be Clothes by Lynn Schnurnberger